Once again, the weather changed -- I've never known such a changeable climate! The morning started out sunny, but before we were done with breakfast, we could see rain showers closer to the peaks. We were still not far from that dividing line between buckets of rain and very little. Alex, our guide, swore it never rains in Wanaka, our destination for the night, so we took heart. Plus it helped that the tailwind continued strong. Although I was now considerably sicker, I decided I'd give it a try. We set off down wind and down valley in a light drizzle. More great waterfalls, more great views made all the more spectacular by the clouds, and more gentle climbs which were becoming more and more difficult.
Even with the considerable assist of the tailwind, each small rise left me gasping and wheezing. At least the rain had let up as we moved away from the ridge. By prearrangement, we met Alex at the base of "The Neck" a mound of rock formed by two glaciers running up against each other. The climb didn't look too bad, so I decided to risk it. And made it. Quite an interesting sight. To one side, Lake Wanaka, to the other Lake Hawea, and in between this little neck of land.
Alex waited at the top, but I could see that it was payback time. No way was I going to all the hard work of climbing The Neck and not get the descent! So I arranged with him to meet me at the bottom of the one significant ascent for the day (not all that significant, but steeper than the rest of the day). At every turn Lake Wanaka became more spectacular. These are not small lakes, and the wind was whipping them into a fury.
By the time Alex had loaded me and my bike up and driven the 3 km to the top, David had ridden up it. A quick look around at the lookout (at the risk of blowing away -- I nearly lost my helmet and gloves by putting them on the ground as I put my pump back on) and off we blew again. By now I was getting mighty hot, as I had bundled up in hopes of not making my cold any worse, so I stopped and stripped off several layers. At this point, David made the mistake of leaving me behind. So when we reached the earthen dam at the end of the lake, he failed to make the turn to coffee in Hawea. Perhaps he knew what he was doing. Crossing the dam in a roaring cross wind was extremely tricky. At least on the way there, we were on the upwind side of the road. On the way back, blowing sideways threatened to send you over a low guardrail and down the outflow of the dam. Once around the corner at the end of the dam, it was a short push into the teeth of the wind, and then there were some conveniently planted windbreak trees. Coffee was great, and David didn't get to share my lovely date scone. Serves him right.
From coffee, it was only about 14 km to Wanaka, but those were some of the hardest km I've ever ridden. Not difficult terrain and the tailwind persisted, but I had no wind myself. As I pulled into Wanaka, I could see it was beautiful and also that there was no way I was going to see any of it. The Te Wanaka Lodge was one of the most convoluted places I've ever seen. You had to go up and down stairs and around corners to each somewhat separate room block, but the container of earplugs in the bathroom suggested that the rooms were not as secluded as they appeared. I was really glad David was there to lead me to our room and carry my bag, as I was in no shape for any of this.
No sooner had we gotten in than the wind really began to blow in earnest, and it began to rain (so much for Alex's prediction). There was major triathlon event scheduled for the next 3 days, and we couldn't imagine how these poor people were going to stay upright on their bikes, much less swim in the whitecap tossed waves of the lake!
After a shower and a nap, I recovered sufficiently to go out to dinner with some of the Pedaltours group. The Cow pizza place was quite popular, and oddly decorated, with chamber pots and other large curiosities perched precariously on the rafters above the diners. We decided to eat outside. Good pizza, and the largest serving of garlic bread you've ever seen (an entire loaf of bread, slathered in herbs, garlic and butter or oil, and served with garlic impregnated butter). One loaf was sufficient for the entire table. A small pizza was easily sufficient for both David and me. One thing I haven't lacked on this trip has been sufficient food.
Back in the Lodge, the internet was only available in a common room, and it was not quite clear how to access it. Not that I really wanted to blog anyway. Off to bed, and a night of hacking and blowing. At least David had managed to secure some Mucus Relief with guaifenisin to help clear out my lungs. Too bad he didn't think of using the earplugs.
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